With many big names absent from New York’s runways, emerging designers stepped into the limelight. From an LVMH prize semifinalist whose collection was inspired by animal bones to Central Saint Martins graduates outfitting influencers in voluminous slip dresses, discover these exciting up-and-coming talents here. Check out https://doors.nyc/collections/showroom to know more
Maryann Msengi
With the 2021 pandemic, shoppers searching for new fashion brands and more homegrown labels are finding a place in our culture. Los Angeles-native Kim Mesches’ wavelike architectural dresses have been worn by Cardi B and Normani; or Sofia, Bulgaria-born Chopova Lowena, who heads her namesake label Chopova Lowena are emerging designers gaining global fame by garnering celebrity clientele and breaking through to international stardom with international clientele bases.
Maryann Msengi launched Farai London in East London last July. She quickly saw their designs trend on social media thanks to Kylie Jenner posting photos wearing their signature Gaia dress in multiple vivid hues.
Msengi hopes that her label’s success marks an ethical, slower-fashion movement. She hopes more consumers will purchase sustainable clothing while supporting smaller, independent brands producing collections of garments themselves.
Karoline Vitto, a graduate of the Royal College of Art, promotes size inclusivity through her figure-hugging separates and dresses designed by this Royal College graduate. Her designs draw upon early 2000s influences and international travel – evidenced by features like deep necklines and cutouts – with details like deep necklines and cutouts. British-Indian designer Supriya Lele also creates silhouettes tailored to diverse body types; her pieces have attracted the likes of Gigi Hadid and Dua Lipa; using cultural heritage with grunge style; she uses cultural heritage with grunge style to produce modern yet rock ‘n roll designs with ease.
Gabriela Hearst
Gabriela Hearst is a women’s luxury ready-to-wear and accessories designer based out of the Paysandu Department in Uruguay. Additionally, she oversees her family ranch. In her work as manager and designer for her eponymous line Gabriela is passionate about creating brands centered on values rather than profit alone.
Hearst is committed to using only high-grade materials in her collections and making all processes environmentally friendly. She strives to reduce waste production while finding more eco-friendly fabrics.
She works to integrate her values into her runway shows. For her SS20 show, she used approximately 30% deadstock fabrics while eliminating plastic usage from both Front-of-House and Back-Of-House areas. Furthermore, she collaborated with TIPA to design bio-based compostable packaging that will become fully renewable within six months.
Hearst offers much to learn from emerging designers like her in the fashion industry. Emerging designers often set trends first and immensely affect how fashion is perceived and consumed globally, so they must think creatively when developing collections relevant to today’s customers. Furthermore, they must stay abreast of marketing trends and understand how their consumers engage with social media.
Supriya Lele
The spring/summer 2023 season promises to bring an array of independent designers that offer clothing inspired by nature or possessing cultural significance – and there are undoubtedly new names worth adding to your fashion lineup.
Supriya Lele, a British-Indian designer gaining fame, hails from a family of doctors. But she made an unconventional choice by choosing art instead of medicine as her field. That decision has paid dividends – after graduating from the Royal College of Art; she was quickly signed on by talent incubator Fashion East where her refined yet sensual take on femininity earned her praise from critics.
She launched her eponymous label in 2016 and won an esteemed NEWGEN sponsorship the same year. Drawing upon her Indian and British cultural identities, she creates modern yet poetic garments with a sensitive observation of femininity.
Her latest collection is an ode to female bodies, particularly their curves. She takes an iconic Indian print called Madras Check. She uses it as inspiration, warping it across body-con dresses, sheer fabric briefs, and dresses in vibrant colors like orange and pink body-hugging dresses, sheer fabric briefs, and shorts she designs herself.
Lele has designed an exciting, modern, eye-catching collection, perfect for women of many different styles and preferences. All pieces can be combined and worn as layering pieces – an integral factor when creating clothing explicitly tailored for multifaceted women like Lele designs.
Sheena Sood
At New York Fashion Week this season, fewer established labels were present on the runways than last, providing emerging brands an opportunity to shine. Rodarte, owned by Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s upscale California label Rodarte, presented an ethereal and mesmeric show. At the same time, Collina Strada showcased models sporting animal heads (bewhiskered cow, rhinoceros horn, and pig snout), creating an intriguing menagerie atmosphere.
These emerging designers are making waves, not only for their cutting-edge fashion designs and forward-thinking gender views but also for innovative business models and strategies to reduce fashion waste. Don’t miss them!
Sheena Sood, a first-generation South-Asian American designer, stands firm to the principles of her label Abacaxi: sharing her heritage through designs while incorporating traditional textile techniques from India and around the world with an eye towards eco-friendliness. Furthermore, Sheena finds spiritual practice an indispensable source of creativity.
Notable designers include Korean designer Sohee Park of Orange Culture, who successfully blends cultural heritage with grunge style for clients including Miley Cyrus and Kylie Jenner; Central Saint Martins graduate Colleen Allen who presented her collection through virtual video during Spring 2021 while creating wavelike architectural dresses for LOVE magazine covers; and Adebayo Oke-Lawal from Orange Culture who fuse Savile Row tailoring techniques with traditional Nigerian methods.
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