Waterproofing basements begin by sealing cracks in foundation walls; however, this doesn’t stop moisture from seeping through concrete walls and causing further damage. Read the Best info about crawl space waterproofing.
To combat this, contractors apply a protective sealant to wall surfaces before white mineral deposits, known as efflorescence, form. This requires stripping away paint and can cost $200 per room.
Exterior Waterproofing
Exterior basement waterproofing costs can vary significantly depending on the method your contractor employs. Some methods involve excavation to install barriers or drains, while others only involve minor excavation around the foundation.
If your leaky basement stands up well to light summer showers or quick spring storms but is hampered during extended rainfalls, installing an excavation drainage system could be one of the best solutions – although it will also likely be one of the costlier.
Leaks in basements and concrete floors typically result from water vapor seeping through walls or flooring, prompting waterproofing professionals to suggest installing vapor barriers as a preventive measure. Vapor barriers are designed to hold back moisture, diverting it to either a waterproofing membrane or basement french drain system and thus keeping the area dry.
Vapor barrier installation typically ranges between $1,500 and $4,000 or $2 to $4 per square foot and involves typically cleaning and sealing services to dry the interior of the basement before contractors install their new vapor barrier.
Other waterproofing methods include installing window well drains that collect rainwater that would otherwise enter through windows and coating windows with Hydro Guard rubberized coating, which costs between $500-$2000 for labor costs alone. It’s essential that when selecting a professional waterproofer, they possess experience and credentials as well as references from past customers; you could ask friends and neighbors for recommendations before getting quotes for this solution.
Interior Waterproofing
Interior waterproofing is an effective option for homes unable to receive exterior waterproofing due to proximity to neighboring properties, limited excavation capabilities, or an outdoor deck, as it typically costs less. Installing a delta drainage membrane on the basement walls prevents water and dampness from entering, diverting it instead to a weeping tile drainage and pump system that channels away excess moisture from the inside. Insulating walls is an additional cost, but it can prevent condensation, which leads to mold growth, mildew growth, and rot. By including insulation as part of your waterproofing project, you could qualify for tax credits under the energy-efficient homeowner rebate program.
Sealants and paints are applied to concrete surfaces to prevent water seepage through walls. While sealants may work if your walls are free of white mineral deposits called efflorescence, waterproofing companies do not advise using sealants or paints as full-stop solutions as this may trap moisture inside them and make the environment wetter than expected.
Older homes typically don’t have their footings installed correctly or at all, causing flooding during light rains or short summer thunderstorms to indicate there may be issues with the grading of your property or gutters and downspouts. You can test this by walking around your foundation, filling low spots, adjusting service walks that have tilted in, and making sure downspouts are correctly attached.
Removal & Prep
Before waterproofing can begin, contractors will need to empty and prep the basement space. This involves clearing away items such as damaged drywall or carpeting, repairing cracks in walls or ceilings, and installing insulation and a vapor barrier to minimize condensation risks.
Parging, or the application of a cementitious coating to the exterior walls of basements, typically costs $4-$6 per square foot and can help protect walls against moisture while at the same time helping address sources of infiltration – however it should only be implemented when combined with another solution.
As soon as a homeowner notices basement seepage or cracks, they must act quickly in order to minimize further damage. Left untreated, basement moisture issues can lead to bowing walls and warped doors as well as increased repair and maintenance costs in the long run.
Interior waterproofing solutions range from simple patching of leaks and cracks to complete removal and reinstallation of the basement floor and subfloor. Due to more extensive excavation work and labor requirements, this approach often costs more than its exterior counterparts.
Drain tile systems (also referred to as weeping tiles or French drains) are an increasingly popular means of waterproofing basements. Installed around the perimeter of your home, these drains direct excess water away from its foundation while simultaneously diverting any leaky windows away from their wells. Drain tiles also make a practical option when dealing with wet rooms in basements that lack adequate drainage systems – providing direct drain access and helping direct moisture away from leaky window wells.
Sump Pump Installation
Installing a sump pump can help protect your home from flooding. A sump pump works to stop basement and crawl space flooding by diverting excess water to an inverted pit located at the lowest point in your basement or crawl space; then, when the level reaches a predetermined level, the pump activates and pushes away through an underground pipe system. You have two choices for installation – pedestal or submersible pumps, which vary between $100 to $400, respectively, while submersible sump pumps cost between $800-plus on average per year.
Your waterproofing contractor should first dig a hole large enough for the sump pump basin. They then place a sump liner—made of plastic with small holes for groundwater circulation while keeping out dirt clogging the pump—at the bottom of your pit and secure it with concrete so it cannot move around during installation.
Contractors install pumps and connect discharge piping to the sump tank’s spigot for easier discharge of water into your house. A one-way check valve should then be installed between the discharge piping and your home exterior to prevent backflow into it; from here, a hose or PVC pipe should run to direct any excess water away from entering it and away from being channeled back in through your plumbing system.
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